The Niceties of Napier

Art Deco toilets

Napier Sunset (looking north)

A meaningful piece of big gaudy artwork.

The cat with the short tail

Bustling intersection in Napier

I arrived in Napier two nights ago via New Zealand Air (a lovely airline, for anyone interested in traveling on it). The Christchurch airport was a bastion of security. They asked if there was matches and/or a lighter in my bag (and that was it -- no checking of photo ID for them!).

I arrived at my hostel (the Stables Lodge) and was immediately questioned as to why I flew in -- seems that not many people fly into Napier. This being my first hostel post-Dad, I took the cheapest one available (something I'm sure to happen many more times). Luckily (and not suprisingly), it was quite nice. There are murals all over the walls in the common rooms, and the place is just as ridiculously art deco as the rest of the town. The room I stayed in was bright purple with stars and moons painted on the ceiling. My favorite part has to be the cats running around the place -- one kitten and one with an abnormaly short tail (see above).

Yesterday I spent most of the day walking along the Marine Parade, which is a walkway that streches along the beach from just north of town to well south of it. I tried to get to the end, but I tired myself out and had to stop and read some of the Fellowship before I could carry on.

Along the pathway there was a big, gaudy piece of art work, so I decided to check it out, see if it had any meaning. I figured it was just a big, gaudy piece of artwork, but no, it had a purpose. The point on the horizon splitting the difference between the stone and the big circle is where the sun rose on the morning of the new millenium. Pretty cool (at least I thought).

Anyways, after a snack of a flat white (coffee with milk) and chips (french fries), which is the snack (as opposed to breakfast) of champions, went out to the beach to watch the sunset. At first I thought it would be a disappointment, since the beach faces east, but I was wrong. Instead of paraphrasing, I'll take it straight from Journal: there is a mist coming in off the ocean - only visible up the beach (right now), as opposed to where I'm sitting. The moon has come out -- half-full, and waxing. The sky beyond the Mahia Penninsula [which is northward] is pink and lavendar, growing brighter as one's eye travels west. The sky, ocean, and even the pebbly gray beach seem to match the hues of the town - bright and pastel simaltaneously. Quite serene. And peaceful. The pink and lavendar are now spreading, from north and south - it looks like they will meet out over the ocean, above the horizon. Their fingers, streching out in wisps, just met. And as the sun sinks lower they are getting brighter and higher up in the sky. And now it's beginning to fade, from the South first. In the north the light is reflected off of the clouds, making them the brightest pinks that are left. The mist coming in off the ocean is more obvious now - I feel touches of it on my face. The pinks and lavendars are fading away - only hugging the bluff now.

That's when the cold won out and I started back towards the hostel. On the way I saw one of the many art deco toilets. Art deco is funny.

I'm off to my first farm stay this afternoon, then down to Wellington next weekend.

Exploratory Committee in Christchurch

Large-scale chess game in Cathedral Square.


A river runs through it.

Have been in Christchurch the past 2 days; it's been quite nice (after having a harrowing time finding the rental car place). The above picture is of the Avon River, which meanders through the city as well as the Botanical Gardens. The gardens are part of a much larger park, right in the center of the city, which is edged with museums, a university, and an art center.

Yesterday morning we walked through the gardens, and the scenery was simply magnificent -- autumn at it's best. Leaves fluttering off the trees (one of which landed in my hair), willow leaves floating down the river, huge trees and bright blooming flowers.



Dad and I split up for the afternoon -- I ended up wandering around the park a bit more, then into the Cantebury Museum, which is a history museum. Most of it was typical history museum stuff (relics of the ancient people, displays of old breakable things, accounts of dead white men's voyages), but there was one out-of-the-ordinary exhibit (to me) regarding environmentally themed problems. Some of these were natural but most of them were human based (surprise surprise). I find the Kiwi take on environmentalism refreshing -- not at all perfect but much more realistic than that in the states, where we seem to embrace the extremes.

While on the topic of museums, I went to the Centre (their spelling, not mine) of Contemporary Art this morning -- I love going to modern art museums when in new places. It seems to give a representation of how life and art differ across geographical and cultural place and space.

As you may be able to tell, I've been getting a bit more philosphical lately (which is good, since Dad left this morning and I'm going to be spending a lot of time with my mind and my journal from here on out). Check out the picture of my contemplative-ness:



As you may or may not be able to tell, there is a spaceship in the background of the shot (just above my head). Aliens have not invaded -- it's a playground for kids. The playgrounds here are much more imaginative than those in the states (at least of the ones I've seen) -- there was a slide shaped like a stegosaurus in Wanaka.

I have a few hours left in Christchurch before I head to Napier for my first farmstay. That's pretty much it.

Until the future.

The Continuing Obsession with LOTR

First of all, for anyone that may not know, LOTR stands for Lord of the Rings. While getting ready for the trip I spent much time agonizing (ok thinking) about what book to bring on the trip -- it needed to be something long (4 months is a long time, especially if I'll be alone a lot), yet interesting (I won't end up spending money on other books because I'm sick of the one I have).

For example: when I traveled in Europe 2 summers ago I brought Simone's The Second Sex. This was both a wise and unwise decision -- it was long enough to maintain the length of the trip, but at times it got boring (way too biology based in the beginning). And it was even a bit too long, since I made it less than halfway through (but that trip was just over 3 weeks, not 4 months).

Yet, I digress. Back to LOTR (and Viggo's extremely high level of attractiveness...... **insert Homer Simpson gurgle**). I had thought, pre-traveling, that I would like to bring The Fellowship for my travels since it's supposed to be both long and interesting. Yet, I allowed my second-guessing (and a certain conversation held with a certain family member over dinner at a certain restuarant in West Chester) convince me of otherwise. So I brought The Invisible Heart, by Nancy Folbre instead. Poor decision. While I do love this book (a typical Katie-style easy-read feminist theory/slightly hostile to capitalism work), I have already read it twice (or has it been three times?) and once within this past year. And it's not that long.

Back to the current time (well yesterday). I had decided to bite the bullet, and buy the Fellowship. Whatever the cost. I stumbled across a secondhand book room (I write room instead of shop since it was just a room in a larger store that sold men's, women's and children's clothes, kitschy doo-dads, postcards, hand cream and many other highly necessary items) and began to look for said book. I was in luck - there was a set of all three books, paperback but with very nice covers -- navy blue and soft. The voyager classic series. Most importanly, they matched! and are pretty! (and are what I was willing to pay for just the first book). So I bought them. And I've read the first 100 pages in less than 24 hours. (Which has begun the worry that I may finish all before I get back to the East Coast, but that worry is yet to materialize, so I shall try to keep it in the back of my head.)

I know this has all been quite interesting to you (whoever reads this). Oh and I saw a hobbit today, just along the side of the road.

A Hitchhiker's Guide to Getting a Ride with Dad and Daughter Hope

Below is a quick list, completely unofficial, of guidlines to hitching a ride with Dad and Daughter Hope:

1. Look friendly, especially when thumbing. We are more likely to pick you up if you are facing us, but if you are facing away, we may still stop.
2. Be prepared for many questions. A large reason you are being picked up is because we are sick of making conversation with each other and/or we have run out of things to say to each other.
3. Expect Dad to interrupt you if a bird comes into his line of sight. Do not point out any birds to him that he does not see unless you want a 5-10 minute tangent on how NZ birds differ from those in the states.
4. Political discussions are welcome, but expect daughter to get heated. Also expect daughter to blame any and/or all problems discussed on capitalism, men, and/or organized religion.
5. If you possess a slight odor(bodily or otherwise) expect daughter to notice it and dad to not. Neither will mention it to you, so it is not an issue to being picked up.
6. Expect often stops at urination stations. Feel free to ask for one yourself, although that will probably not be necessary considering their current frequency.
7. Dad is likely to offer you food, daughter is not. She will especially not offer you any chocolate, so please do not ask.
8. Finally, have a destination in mind that is along our path. Dad is likely to be concerned with the drop spot, daughter will only be so if she thinks you are cute.

**We picked up a hitchiker on our drive from Franz Josef to Wanaka last Monday, and most of these guidlines were inspired by that experience.

Wanna Wanaka?

The house we're currently inhabiting.

Since Monday we've been in the lovely little town of Wanaka, staying at a friend of my Mom's -- it's been way sweet. The house faces the west (i think -- being in the southern hemisphere has slightly downgraded my impeccible sense of direction), and the sun heats the place up nicely all day, since there are huge windows all facing west. The picture below is the view from the back porch. (yes those mountains in the back are snow covered)



Also in the west-wardly view lies a farm (possibly the only farm in NZ without sheep -- just goats and deer). Have you ever heard the sounds does make (of doe a dear a female deer) -- absolutely hilarious. A cross between the goy noise that was popular in junior high and a dolphin screeching.

Dad and I are completely in our travel groove -- we've reverted to 12 yr old boy humor. Today we went on a hike (we're expert hikers now, at least according to the specifications of the hike) and stopped to eat our snack on a big rock. Big like you have to climb up on other rocks to sit on it. We're eating, enjoying the scenery, and what do I notice? A pile of poo sitting on the rock, about a meter away. (Sheep poo, obviously, the cows aren't that dexterous). Why did a sheep poo on the rock? The eternal question.

The hike was a bit of a challenge -- quite steep (without switchbacks) but we're experts! Check out the pics below for my dad traversing the creek (no bridges for the Kiwis, they're hearty) - it was way cold and caused us both to curse then laugh at our wussiness; and then of me sitting on the poo rock.





One other JMH tidbit -- two nights ago he was reading the local paper (quite similar to the Daily Local News), and he came across the results of the Bowling League Raffle. Among the prizes: an iced fruit cake, a load of wood, and .... (the fifth prize made Dad laugh so hard he cried and couldn't talk - if you've never seen this you totally need to, its hilarious and makes the witnesser also laugh quite hard) -- a toy turtle. What is a toy turtle? A toy shaped like a turtle, or a small turtle, like a toy poodle?

We have two more full days in Wanaka, then up to Christchurch for a bit of exploration and flights -- Dad back to the states, and me back to north Island.

More later.

I am Aragorn! (Ok, maybe Gimli)

Our current locale (wanaka) continuously reminds me of LOTR - specifically the first half of the second movie (god i just need to read the books) -- you (LOTR nerds) know the part, when Aragon, Gimli and Orlando Bloom are tracking Mary and Pippin? ok, a picture is worth a thousand words:



See that peak up there, far in the distance? That's where Dad and I (and a bunch of other people, including a Penn guy, believe it or not) hiked to (and back, obviously) today. It was a good trek - quite steep but on open, grassy path. The main issue was one of shit, literally. The path went through sheep pastures, who left little poos ALL OVER the path (sorry about the caps but they were necessary).

It was fun to have the sheep around -- it because a game of where's waldo? but with sheep. here, you play!



Anyways, the hike was good. At the summit we had a 360 degree view - mountains, mountains, snow-capped mountains, lake, cute town, mountains. It's a hard life, this traveling.


View from the summit (one of them)

A Philosophical Moment

Lake Wanaka

Before I get to the heart of the matter, a LOTR reference is necessary -- I just passed a restuarant that has 'elevenses' as a course heading on the menu.

So I've spent a good part of the day walking around Lake Wanaka, which is in the middle of the south Island, about 100 kms north of Queenstown. The scenery is absolutely gorgeous (as you can probably tell), and it has been like this since we came through the mountains yesterday afternoon.

But.

Along the south shore of the lake an art exhibit is up (nothing like an artist to bring me back to reality) regarding sustainable development, titled Earth From Above, made up of aerial photographs. The photos are from around the world and quite spectacular; I tried to photograph some of them myself but the time of day (and sun placement) wasn't right for it. (In case someone wants to check it out, the artist's website is: www.yannarthusbertrand.org -- i havent visited it yet).

While the sights and message aren't anything new (to me at least, and probably not to any of you), they are certainly disheartening, especially as an American. Immediately, there's the guilt of taking such a trip of this (around the world via airplane), followed by the little actions I shouldn't be taking (not taking the time to find where to recycle my diet coke can, throwing out a plastic bag with peanut butter on the inside instead of reusing it, etc).

It seems to be a constant challenge, reconciling my actual life with my idealistic life -- and the frustration that comes with it also seems to be never ending.

But.

I do feel hopeful, even with all the waste that does exist in our heavily industrialized (and not) world -- I sincerely believe we have the resources (brain powered and not) to kick our seemingly wasteful nature, but we do have to change our lifestyles, as uncomfortable as that can be. Not to sound too preachy. (Jesus loves you!)



(thought you may enjoy a bit of NZ humor/propoganda)

An Ode to Wilson Panther

Oh lovely cat! You've been a presence and pressure in my life for almost 3 years now; so grateful to have you am I. Your sleek black coat and piercing green eyes are a thing of beauty, similar to the majestic and constant views of NZ (ok maybe not quite as great, even so). Your playful nature comes across even when you were an experiment kitty, with scars, no spleen and an odd number of nipples. Your fascination and aborrance of water never ceases to be hypocritcal (and frustrating); your ability to make toys out of trash makes you a good kommie kitty.

I've been missing my cat. Check him out on youtube thanks to my lovely and wonderful brother (thanks t-funk!): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHyigblOaBY

On the Road Again

Franz Josef Glacier - watch out it's moving fast!



Doing my part to clear the path for Dear Old Dad


A kiwi! (no zoom was used on this photo)

Arrived at Franz Josef Glacier today - the more commercial of the two glacial towns - this one has two whole streets! We've been driving (mostly Dad, not at all surprisingly) around the South Island. We left Picton yesterday and arrived in Westport after about 5.5 hrs of quite interesting driving -- narrow, wind-y roads, gorgeous views (which some **Dad** may not have thought worth the drive), and multiple one lane bridges; one of which was carved right out of the side of a mountain.

After arriving in Westport and settling into our hostel (the TripInn -- and discovering that the door wouldn't close with the current bed alignment, which caused us both to laugh. Luckily manly man dad was able to move the bed so we could get the door to close) we went out for a jaunt around town. Dad was hoping to find a new book to read. Alas, all the stores were closed (close at noon on Saturdays). Thankfully, the bars were open (quite open indeed, a rugby match was on the telly) so we each had a Monteith's ale (monteith's is the local beer around here - i like to think of it as the yuengling of NZ).

The next morning (today) we filled up on petrol and went South to Punakaiki (giggle giggle, I'm so mature) - on the way we saw a sign warning us of penguins for the next 10 kms... yes this is not the states.

just before we reached our destination, there was a lookout, so we stopped, and encountered our first of local fauna for the day. Kiwis! (the birds, not the people) were hanging out and poking around by the carpark - they are ridiculously tame. One came within 3 feet of me. After a few photos, onward we went.

In Punakaiki, we saw the pancake rocks and a bit of the blowholes - both natural phenomenoms - the pancake rocks were formed over years and years (millions that is) of pressure and look like giant stacks of pancakes, and the blowholes are what happens when the tide comes in through them (and blows up through the rocks, not at all suprisingly). After that we went for a short hike through the rainforest than to the Tasman sea to take more photos. It's getting to the point where I don't even know what to think of regarding the scenery -- everything is so beautiful and new, it's hard to know what to photograph, what will be deemed impressive once back in the states. I'm erring on the side of everything will be impressive, so taking lots of photos. (Including the wild -- maybe not though-- goats we saw hanging out, eating, butting heads.)

Onwards we went, down the west coast, where Dad asked for the radio to be turned on (there's a first time for everything) - while I was searching for a station, he commented that he had never been to a place where he couldnt get a station. well he has now! After another penguin crossing sign, an ice cream and one quick glimpse of a glacier, we arrived in Franz Josef.

A Wee Bit Seasick

This morning we took the train into Wellington - the weather was a bit sour - has been all day, raining on and off; we're a bit worried about the weather since we're taking the (3.5 hr) ferry ride across Cook Straight (correct me if I'm wrong here people) to the South Island, arriving and staying in Pictin for the night.

Still raining on and off when we board the ferry. By far this is the biggest boat I've ever been on - slightly loveboat-esk -- The Blue Bridge. Take me away to freedom! I think (ok I didn't think that but I felt like I needed to write something meaningful there -- really I was trying to ignore Dad's constant banter on seasickness).

After boarding the mighty vessel (the bowels of the ship, says dad) we see a dog sitting in the driver's seat of a camper (caravan here) - dad stops - oh i have to take a picture - i roll my eyes, so we continue (sorry mom, it really was cute). we climb up 3-4 flights of narrow stairs (why didn't we check our packs?) and find a place in the back of the ship (yeah i dont know nautical terms) on a couch, and i try to think of anything and everything other than seasickness. ok the grilled cheese sandwich i just had, wrong thought. ipod helped for a bit, but once we got out on the open sea, it was a wee bit brutal. I heard one person say 8m waves, but that wasn't confirmed. Someone else said only 4m. Even so, the ship was rockin' and not in a good way. All but the children (Cool!!!) were looking unhappy. Luckily, I was able to curl up and doze until we reached calmer waters. I venture to the deck - Beauty! (Something new and different). The mountains are certainly mountains here.

Oh, and I didn't hurl. Neither did dad.

The Paradise of Paradise

Me and the Tasman Sea, looking good.



The view from our hostel window

Last night we stayed in Plimmerton (which makes me want to laugh in a British accent), just north of Wellington, and it was a little piece of Paradise. It was on a small bay of the Tasman Sea, with mountains (ok they may have been hills) right behind, with little houses dotted amongst the hillsides. Absolutely beautiful. It reminded Dad and I of the bay area, but better (yes that is possible you *snotty* california lovers) - minimal traffic, minimal signs of consumerism. ahhhh paradise.

The owner of the hostel came to pick us up from the bus station (It's the Kiwi way, he says), and gave us a show around of the area. Just before we reach the top of the hill (mountain?) there's a fence along the edge of the (quite steep) road - "Ruins the view" says our Kiwi driver. Just earlier there was a car that had run off the road; must have been going to fast around the curvaceous roads. "Serves him right", says he.

Dad and he get to talking - the owner (who's name is also John) just built a sailboat. The conversation becomes overtaken with the two John boatbuilders (for those of you that dont know, my dad built a kayak in the fall). i enjoy the scenery. it's pretty.

after we get into the hostel, Helen takes care of us - gets us the ferry tickets for the next day, gets us set up with a rental car, gets us a train schedule and a wee to-do list for the time we have in Wellington itself. The two Johns are off in the Marina talking and examining the boats. I'm taking photos of the sunset.

After we bs a bit more, we talk about tramping -- oh yeah we did the Tongariro Crossing yesterday, it was pretty challenging, must have been 50 km winds at the top. Oh thats nothing, says our lovely hostel owner. One time it was well over 100 km winds and i had to crawl back from the summit on my hands and knees. so i guess dad and i are a bit wussy. oh and our room looked out over the tasman sea, and we could see the south island in the distance.

i love this place.

To the Moon and Antarctica (with a Volcano snack)

One of the emerald lakes.

Today we went for our first real tramp - the Tongariro Crossing (which I alluded to previously - you mean youre not reading the blog religiously?). This is the place where Frodo and Gollum fell off mt doom. so we (dad, me and our newfound irish hostel friends) thought it'd be a good idea to do the trek when the weather wasn't that good. not a good idea folks.

we started the tramp at 20 past 8, and it was raining. not hard, but enough for my "waterproof" jacket to be quite wet after 45 minutes or so. The beginning was quite nice, appearance wise. small scrubby plants, little brooks, small waterfalls, the like. then we hit the volcanic soil. we had to have ascended 1000 ft in 40 minutes. over volcanic rock. its a bit difficult to find ones footing on volcanic rock. quite difficult in fact. and its not even like the views made up for it, since we were in a cloud. yet we triumphed. oh wait then there was more uphill volcanic rock. it kept coming. i kept thinking it was over, but no - thats one of the problems of hiking in a cloud.

we (finally) reached a point when we got solid footing again (which seemed like such a gift). But we still had half of the ascent to complete. at this point the cutesy vegetation has disappeared, the wind no longer at our backs but 5 times as strong and at our sides, and we're walking along the edge of a crater. i would have been fearful of being swept away into the crater (i should have been fearful of it) but my thoughts were busy with "biggest steps possible woman" and "I can do this".

Eventually we did make it to the top - which brings me to the former part of the title to the post. by this time, from the rain and sweat combo, i was soaked thru, and the winds hadnt let up so it was freezing cold (and the temp wasnt much above). hence antarctica - the moon came from the landscape - look for pics later (when i have more time ahh only 6 minutes left!). no vegetation, only volcanic soil. and big rocks and craters. some of which were technicolor which was slightly pretty (on a nicer day they would have been beautiful).


This is the view from the side of the crater - the camera is not at all tilted.

after hearing my tummy rumble i realized i was hungry, so i sat down to eat one of my 3 peanut butter sandwiches. whats that crunch? i thought - the wheat breads not usually that crunchy. ahhh i was munching on some volcanic soil. oh well.

eventually we made it back. vegetation increase as did temps. and now im dry (not quite warm yet) with a wicked blister on my 2nd from baby toe on my left foot. (i knew you wanted to know that).

more later

A Hot Hostel Minute

Arrived in Turangi yesterday afternoon (no hitching yet, still the bus). Sadly, the scenery is no longer beautiful. Strip malls are everywhere and there's way too many SUVs on the right. Just kidding! It continues to be gorgeous.

Anyways, we're staying in the Extreme Backpackers here in Turangi (no idea why the name is that - maybe its that they have an attached climbing wall, that and everyone here is totally extreme. especially my dad). I was tiring of not having the joy of cooking, so we bought (I use that term loosely - dad bought) pasta, sauce and veggies so I could actually cook something. after figuring out which burners work (nothing like a game of burner roulette) i got the water boiling and veggies sauteeing - ahhhhhh cooking. the smells. yay. so happy to do that. alas i wasnt alone in the kitchen anymore (yeah i started cooking at 5:20) - i was joined by one man. he was making a whole package of bacon (nothing else). then another man, whose desire was 4 boiled hot dogs. boys can be so silly.

the meal was good. the end.

Taupo tidbit

That's me in the hot springs, next to the gentleman with the camera around his neck.

It seems that I may become a bit of an alliteration whore -- at least until something more interesting comes along.

We arrived in Taupo last night after another beautiful bus ride - the hillsides were polka dotted (with sheep) and the scenery got more breathtaking with each passing kilometer (I'm trying to acclimate myself to the culture here people). We arrived from the north just before sunset and the view was (to sound like myself) totally awesome. The lake streches out before you (well me you silly Americans) with mountains behind and to the right and the town to the left and just in front of the lake. Words really don't do it justice, but I try. (Sidebar - it seems that posting photos will be a bit of a challenge, since many of the hostels and internet cafes dont allow you to upload/download/whatever it is.)

Today we went for a walk just outside of town to a hot springs (thankfully not smelling like sulfur, a nice change of pace) which I got in. It's hard to believe that it's fall here. anywho, the springs were quite nice - hot tub hot and river cold at the same time, with the cold water at the bottom and the hot water wherever the bubbles were/passed thru.

We're off to Turangi this afternoon and the Tongariro national forest tomorrow - it's supposed to be lovely and surreal at the same time - it's the place where Frodo and Gollum fell into Mt Doom (oh yeah those LOTR references are just going to keep coming). then we're off to Wellington and to the south island.

More later (unless the worst happens, let's hope not)

Accidental Accent

A couple of quick cultural bits --

I've seen lots of people barefoot here so far (lots compared to the Uptight East Coast of the States). Even one kid was barefoot in the supermarket. Naturally, I love this and go barefoot as much as I can as well.

Also, I've been chatting with a bunch of people from the UK, and I'm starting to pick up their inflections - no faux accent as of yet, but today is only the start of day four. Please let my 'youse guys', 'wudder' and 'ye-ah' fade into the background.

Rotorua on a Coffee Buzz

on the tramp - that's lake rotorua in the background.


local flora. (check out those ferns!)


I just had my first cup of coffee in almost a week. My hands are literally shaking. Yay drugs! (Oh and Dad is drinking a beer at 4 in the afternoon. Even after yesterday when he said he wasn't planning on drinking at all. Oh dad.)

We arrived in Rotorua yesterday afternoon and checked into the Funky Green Backpackers (another great hostel choice by Dad - Let's Go wrote that this may be the best hostel in all of NZ). We had an interesting bus ride here (from Auckland, stay with me here people). Our bus driver was a talkative Maori man who gave us background and history of the places we drove past and through. I learned that the Labour Party is in power in NZ currently and there will be elections in 14 months. The highlight of the trip most definitely was the drive through Matamata. What's Matamata you ask? Hobbiton! I didn't see any actual hobbits, though I have faith that I will (don't tell me they don't exist. they're the only reason I came to NZ).The countryside did slightly resemble the Shire...... oh LOTR. Why did I ever think I wouldn't like you?

Back to Rotorua. Some of yall may have heard of this lovely place - it's where the hotsprings and mud pools and Zorbing are (no I'm not doing that Kaitlin, we Hopes are too cheap). We were warned by the woman that gave us a ride to the dairy that there would be an interesting smell to the place ("oh it stinks in Rotorua" were her words, but it's still early enough in the trip that I'm seeing everything thru rose colored glasses). The sulfur (which creates the bubbling goodness) leaves the town with wafts of sour egg smell. Or hardboiled eggs that have been left out too long (thank god i'll be back in time for the 4th of july!).

But never mind the smell - there's places that look just like the dead marshes (not as big, but with the steam and such). We walked around the town park yesterday and ended up having a bit spa treatment - look for pics later (when I figure out how to post pics on this thing).

Today we went for our first hike (it won't be long before I refer to them as tramps) in a forest just outside of town. Beautiful redwoods and the biggest ferns I've ever seen. There were views of the town and lake towards the beggining of the tramp (there we go), and mountain bikers to navigate around towards the end. There was talk of hitching back into town, but we haven't had the desire (proper exhaustion) yet - I'm sure it will happen at some point.

Back at the Funky Green I met two Irish girls who've wwoofed a bit in NZ - only good feedback from them which is positive. Tomorrow I'll make contact with the first few farms I'm interested in - one that makes cheese and another that's a brewery. yesss! We're off to Taupo tomorrow. That's it for now - keep those comments coming!

Arriving at the Brown Kiwi

Ahhh New Zealand. Everyone must come here. It's peaceful, healthy, beautiful, and I've been here less than 12 hours. Maybe I'm just grateful to be rid the dreaded USAir. My bag is yet to be seen by me, but it is in NZ and on its way here. I should see it soon. How I long for deodorant!

Moving on. Dad and I are staying at a lovely hostel called the Brown Kiwi in Ponsonby (a trendy neighborhood in Auckland - I'm kinda surprised Dad picked this but hey good call). There's comfy beds, a big kitchen to cook in, two guitars to play and interesting people to chat with. And a garden to eat/read/relax in. Yay!

Today we meandered (well Dad's meandering isn't my meandering, but whatevs) around the harbor and ate cheese sandwiches. The traveling has (really) begun! As long as I get my bag tonight, we're off to Rotorua tomorrow.

Don't Fly USAir!

To get back to my hippie roots, I must (must!) quote the Dead - What a long strange trip it's been. Thanks to the wonderfully incompetent people at USAir, I arrived in NZ a full day after I was supposed to. It all began with my PHL-LAX flight increasingly delayed on Tuesday night, until we left over 2.5 hrs after we should have. (The time between connecting flights? 2.5 hrs.... and so the entertainment begins). After endurring annoyingly loud talker thru the flight, I arrive at LAX with 15 minutes before my flight to Fiji (the plan was philly to la to fiji to nz). Do I dare? I ask a flight attendent. How can you not? She replies.

And off I go, with newfound Aussie friend also trying to make a connecting flight. We run from domestic to international with great speed and agility. (Nevermind the fact that my newly mended pants are held up with velcro and velcro is not conducive to staying velcroed while running at full speed. Yet my hands still worked, so not wanting to be naked in public Katie held up her pants with one hand while paranoid Katie held onto her passport and ticket - no not bording pass I still needed to check in! - with the other.) I arrive at the Air Pacific desk, and hope beyond hope, my plane is still boarding! I have 2 minutes left I can make it! Alas it was not to be. The plane already left.

Back to USAirways baggage claim. I didn't make my flight, I tell the woman wommaning the counter. Oh I knew you wouldn't, she says. The crew called us 6 hours ago and we already have you booked on another flight for tomorrow night at 9:30.

What? Why did that damned flight attendent tell me to run? For her own shits and giggles?

The rest of the interaction at the USAir baggage claim was fairly boring, other than the fact that Stedman was there - he lost his bag! and he's really tall in person. If you don't know who Stedman is, you obviously need to watch more Oprah.

So off to the Marriot, for a good nights sleep, then the best damned berry smoothie ever (and there's the silver lining). Then back to the airport to alert my Dad's airline that I will be arriving a day late (which they did tell him, thank you Qantas). Then back to the oh so comfy Marriot bed for a long nap. Then late check-out, and back to the airport to Air NZ to check in.

Where's your ticket? The Air NZ attendent asks. I tell her my story, and apparently USAir should have known to give me a fim. But they didn't, because they suck. Back to USair to get the fim. While there, I inquire about my bag.

Oh it's in Fiji. When you get to Fiji, pick it up.

But how do I do this (you bullshit USAir), since you booked me on a flight straight to Auckland?

Hmmmmmm, she replies. Fuck, I think (and say, sorry grown ups who read this).

There's nothing they can do until I get to Auckland when I must file a claim. So back to Air NZ, through security, onto the flight, two movies and a bit of sleep later, I arrive in NZ and thank goodness, my Dad has gotten the messages and I meet him at the airport.

The Beginning

About to embark on a trek halfway around the world, I feel obligated to write something poetic. Or insightful. or at least important. Yet I have next to nothing. I've wrapped up my life in Philly (thank zeus) and I leave for New Zealand tomorrow. The trip is sure to create enough stories for the next few years - travelling for three weeks in NZ with my father, followed with my attempt at learning to farm organically, then a brief stint in Sydney (anyone, anyone? Gen, you out there?) and closing out the international travels with the lovely Benny K in Korea. I hope that I have packed adequately, although I know that is impossible (especially since I can't bring the cat! - yes, I am that person). More infotainment will follow, I'm sure (barring any unforseen circumstances, such as death).