First Family "Farm" stay

midway through a beach walk



my breakfast view (hard to see it, but the Pacific is in the background)


Just got back into Napier after my first "farm"stay in Haumoana -- I put farm in quotes because this wasn't a farm, it was a house in the suburbs (which are similar to the idealized version of suburbs in the states, ie teeny streets, everyone knows each other and each other's business, corner stores and local libraries. oh and local fish and chips shops, so i guess they're not entirely the same).

The woman I was staying with was going through a bit of family trauma (and 'a bit' is an understatement), so the Capricorn that I am, I helped her get her life back in order (or so I like to think). Yeah so.... it wasn't the experience I was expected (although I should've expected that, ha!) I did find ways to keep myself occupied and relatively enjoy myself (it was hard to not let the trauma affect me, sensitive soul -- sniffle, sniffle -- that I am). I spent most of my free time walking on the beach or reading books like I've never read books before. I finished Perfect Health (Deepak Chopra) and the Immortals -- I managed to finish the Immortals in 2 and a half days, which I feel is quite the feat. (Those of you that don't know what this book is, its over 500 pages of gossip re: JFK, RFK and the lovely and tragic Marilyn Monroe. I finished the book feeling incredibly pensive last night, and thinking that J Edgar Hoover is a douche, and that RFK was kinda naieve. I'm sure the entire book is factual.)

I'm off to Wellington this afternoon and quite siked about it -- everyone I've talked to about Wellington raves about it (or at least has postive things to report). I'll be there three nights and I'm thinking of it as a bit of a vacation (I know, I know, I'm sure lots of you are thinking this whole trip is a vacation -- but I did work the past week, in some senses). After Wellington I'm off to my next farmstay, on the complete opposite side of the island (a whole 300 kms away! it's like, a lot or something...).

Hope all is well in the states, although from the NZ news, it seems it isn't (gotta love those LAPD!).

The Niceties of Napier

Art Deco toilets

Napier Sunset (looking north)

A meaningful piece of big gaudy artwork.

The cat with the short tail

Bustling intersection in Napier

I arrived in Napier two nights ago via New Zealand Air (a lovely airline, for anyone interested in traveling on it). The Christchurch airport was a bastion of security. They asked if there was matches and/or a lighter in my bag (and that was it -- no checking of photo ID for them!).

I arrived at my hostel (the Stables Lodge) and was immediately questioned as to why I flew in -- seems that not many people fly into Napier. This being my first hostel post-Dad, I took the cheapest one available (something I'm sure to happen many more times). Luckily (and not suprisingly), it was quite nice. There are murals all over the walls in the common rooms, and the place is just as ridiculously art deco as the rest of the town. The room I stayed in was bright purple with stars and moons painted on the ceiling. My favorite part has to be the cats running around the place -- one kitten and one with an abnormaly short tail (see above).

Yesterday I spent most of the day walking along the Marine Parade, which is a walkway that streches along the beach from just north of town to well south of it. I tried to get to the end, but I tired myself out and had to stop and read some of the Fellowship before I could carry on.

Along the pathway there was a big, gaudy piece of art work, so I decided to check it out, see if it had any meaning. I figured it was just a big, gaudy piece of artwork, but no, it had a purpose. The point on the horizon splitting the difference between the stone and the big circle is where the sun rose on the morning of the new millenium. Pretty cool (at least I thought).

Anyways, after a snack of a flat white (coffee with milk) and chips (french fries), which is the snack (as opposed to breakfast) of champions, went out to the beach to watch the sunset. At first I thought it would be a disappointment, since the beach faces east, but I was wrong. Instead of paraphrasing, I'll take it straight from Journal: there is a mist coming in off the ocean - only visible up the beach (right now), as opposed to where I'm sitting. The moon has come out -- half-full, and waxing. The sky beyond the Mahia Penninsula [which is northward] is pink and lavendar, growing brighter as one's eye travels west. The sky, ocean, and even the pebbly gray beach seem to match the hues of the town - bright and pastel simaltaneously. Quite serene. And peaceful. The pink and lavendar are now spreading, from north and south - it looks like they will meet out over the ocean, above the horizon. Their fingers, streching out in wisps, just met. And as the sun sinks lower they are getting brighter and higher up in the sky. And now it's beginning to fade, from the South first. In the north the light is reflected off of the clouds, making them the brightest pinks that are left. The mist coming in off the ocean is more obvious now - I feel touches of it on my face. The pinks and lavendars are fading away - only hugging the bluff now.

That's when the cold won out and I started back towards the hostel. On the way I saw one of the many art deco toilets. Art deco is funny.

I'm off to my first farm stay this afternoon, then down to Wellington next weekend.

Exploratory Committee in Christchurch

Large-scale chess game in Cathedral Square.


A river runs through it.

Have been in Christchurch the past 2 days; it's been quite nice (after having a harrowing time finding the rental car place). The above picture is of the Avon River, which meanders through the city as well as the Botanical Gardens. The gardens are part of a much larger park, right in the center of the city, which is edged with museums, a university, and an art center.

Yesterday morning we walked through the gardens, and the scenery was simply magnificent -- autumn at it's best. Leaves fluttering off the trees (one of which landed in my hair), willow leaves floating down the river, huge trees and bright blooming flowers.



Dad and I split up for the afternoon -- I ended up wandering around the park a bit more, then into the Cantebury Museum, which is a history museum. Most of it was typical history museum stuff (relics of the ancient people, displays of old breakable things, accounts of dead white men's voyages), but there was one out-of-the-ordinary exhibit (to me) regarding environmentally themed problems. Some of these were natural but most of them were human based (surprise surprise). I find the Kiwi take on environmentalism refreshing -- not at all perfect but much more realistic than that in the states, where we seem to embrace the extremes.

While on the topic of museums, I went to the Centre (their spelling, not mine) of Contemporary Art this morning -- I love going to modern art museums when in new places. It seems to give a representation of how life and art differ across geographical and cultural place and space.

As you may be able to tell, I've been getting a bit more philosphical lately (which is good, since Dad left this morning and I'm going to be spending a lot of time with my mind and my journal from here on out). Check out the picture of my contemplative-ness:



As you may or may not be able to tell, there is a spaceship in the background of the shot (just above my head). Aliens have not invaded -- it's a playground for kids. The playgrounds here are much more imaginative than those in the states (at least of the ones I've seen) -- there was a slide shaped like a stegosaurus in Wanaka.

I have a few hours left in Christchurch before I head to Napier for my first farmstay. That's pretty much it.

Until the future.

The Continuing Obsession with LOTR

First of all, for anyone that may not know, LOTR stands for Lord of the Rings. While getting ready for the trip I spent much time agonizing (ok thinking) about what book to bring on the trip -- it needed to be something long (4 months is a long time, especially if I'll be alone a lot), yet interesting (I won't end up spending money on other books because I'm sick of the one I have).

For example: when I traveled in Europe 2 summers ago I brought Simone's The Second Sex. This was both a wise and unwise decision -- it was long enough to maintain the length of the trip, but at times it got boring (way too biology based in the beginning). And it was even a bit too long, since I made it less than halfway through (but that trip was just over 3 weeks, not 4 months).

Yet, I digress. Back to LOTR (and Viggo's extremely high level of attractiveness...... **insert Homer Simpson gurgle**). I had thought, pre-traveling, that I would like to bring The Fellowship for my travels since it's supposed to be both long and interesting. Yet, I allowed my second-guessing (and a certain conversation held with a certain family member over dinner at a certain restuarant in West Chester) convince me of otherwise. So I brought The Invisible Heart, by Nancy Folbre instead. Poor decision. While I do love this book (a typical Katie-style easy-read feminist theory/slightly hostile to capitalism work), I have already read it twice (or has it been three times?) and once within this past year. And it's not that long.

Back to the current time (well yesterday). I had decided to bite the bullet, and buy the Fellowship. Whatever the cost. I stumbled across a secondhand book room (I write room instead of shop since it was just a room in a larger store that sold men's, women's and children's clothes, kitschy doo-dads, postcards, hand cream and many other highly necessary items) and began to look for said book. I was in luck - there was a set of all three books, paperback but with very nice covers -- navy blue and soft. The voyager classic series. Most importanly, they matched! and are pretty! (and are what I was willing to pay for just the first book). So I bought them. And I've read the first 100 pages in less than 24 hours. (Which has begun the worry that I may finish all before I get back to the East Coast, but that worry is yet to materialize, so I shall try to keep it in the back of my head.)

I know this has all been quite interesting to you (whoever reads this). Oh and I saw a hobbit today, just along the side of the road.

A Hitchhiker's Guide to Getting a Ride with Dad and Daughter Hope

Below is a quick list, completely unofficial, of guidlines to hitching a ride with Dad and Daughter Hope:

1. Look friendly, especially when thumbing. We are more likely to pick you up if you are facing us, but if you are facing away, we may still stop.
2. Be prepared for many questions. A large reason you are being picked up is because we are sick of making conversation with each other and/or we have run out of things to say to each other.
3. Expect Dad to interrupt you if a bird comes into his line of sight. Do not point out any birds to him that he does not see unless you want a 5-10 minute tangent on how NZ birds differ from those in the states.
4. Political discussions are welcome, but expect daughter to get heated. Also expect daughter to blame any and/or all problems discussed on capitalism, men, and/or organized religion.
5. If you possess a slight odor(bodily or otherwise) expect daughter to notice it and dad to not. Neither will mention it to you, so it is not an issue to being picked up.
6. Expect often stops at urination stations. Feel free to ask for one yourself, although that will probably not be necessary considering their current frequency.
7. Dad is likely to offer you food, daughter is not. She will especially not offer you any chocolate, so please do not ask.
8. Finally, have a destination in mind that is along our path. Dad is likely to be concerned with the drop spot, daughter will only be so if she thinks you are cute.

**We picked up a hitchiker on our drive from Franz Josef to Wanaka last Monday, and most of these guidlines were inspired by that experience.

Wanna Wanaka?

The house we're currently inhabiting.

Since Monday we've been in the lovely little town of Wanaka, staying at a friend of my Mom's -- it's been way sweet. The house faces the west (i think -- being in the southern hemisphere has slightly downgraded my impeccible sense of direction), and the sun heats the place up nicely all day, since there are huge windows all facing west. The picture below is the view from the back porch. (yes those mountains in the back are snow covered)



Also in the west-wardly view lies a farm (possibly the only farm in NZ without sheep -- just goats and deer). Have you ever heard the sounds does make (of doe a dear a female deer) -- absolutely hilarious. A cross between the goy noise that was popular in junior high and a dolphin screeching.

Dad and I are completely in our travel groove -- we've reverted to 12 yr old boy humor. Today we went on a hike (we're expert hikers now, at least according to the specifications of the hike) and stopped to eat our snack on a big rock. Big like you have to climb up on other rocks to sit on it. We're eating, enjoying the scenery, and what do I notice? A pile of poo sitting on the rock, about a meter away. (Sheep poo, obviously, the cows aren't that dexterous). Why did a sheep poo on the rock? The eternal question.

The hike was a bit of a challenge -- quite steep (without switchbacks) but we're experts! Check out the pics below for my dad traversing the creek (no bridges for the Kiwis, they're hearty) - it was way cold and caused us both to curse then laugh at our wussiness; and then of me sitting on the poo rock.





One other JMH tidbit -- two nights ago he was reading the local paper (quite similar to the Daily Local News), and he came across the results of the Bowling League Raffle. Among the prizes: an iced fruit cake, a load of wood, and .... (the fifth prize made Dad laugh so hard he cried and couldn't talk - if you've never seen this you totally need to, its hilarious and makes the witnesser also laugh quite hard) -- a toy turtle. What is a toy turtle? A toy shaped like a turtle, or a small turtle, like a toy poodle?

We have two more full days in Wanaka, then up to Christchurch for a bit of exploration and flights -- Dad back to the states, and me back to north Island.

More later.

I am Aragorn! (Ok, maybe Gimli)

Our current locale (wanaka) continuously reminds me of LOTR - specifically the first half of the second movie (god i just need to read the books) -- you (LOTR nerds) know the part, when Aragon, Gimli and Orlando Bloom are tracking Mary and Pippin? ok, a picture is worth a thousand words:



See that peak up there, far in the distance? That's where Dad and I (and a bunch of other people, including a Penn guy, believe it or not) hiked to (and back, obviously) today. It was a good trek - quite steep but on open, grassy path. The main issue was one of shit, literally. The path went through sheep pastures, who left little poos ALL OVER the path (sorry about the caps but they were necessary).

It was fun to have the sheep around -- it because a game of where's waldo? but with sheep. here, you play!



Anyways, the hike was good. At the summit we had a 360 degree view - mountains, mountains, snow-capped mountains, lake, cute town, mountains. It's a hard life, this traveling.


View from the summit (one of them)

A Philosophical Moment

Lake Wanaka

Before I get to the heart of the matter, a LOTR reference is necessary -- I just passed a restuarant that has 'elevenses' as a course heading on the menu.

So I've spent a good part of the day walking around Lake Wanaka, which is in the middle of the south Island, about 100 kms north of Queenstown. The scenery is absolutely gorgeous (as you can probably tell), and it has been like this since we came through the mountains yesterday afternoon.

But.

Along the south shore of the lake an art exhibit is up (nothing like an artist to bring me back to reality) regarding sustainable development, titled Earth From Above, made up of aerial photographs. The photos are from around the world and quite spectacular; I tried to photograph some of them myself but the time of day (and sun placement) wasn't right for it. (In case someone wants to check it out, the artist's website is: www.yannarthusbertrand.org -- i havent visited it yet).

While the sights and message aren't anything new (to me at least, and probably not to any of you), they are certainly disheartening, especially as an American. Immediately, there's the guilt of taking such a trip of this (around the world via airplane), followed by the little actions I shouldn't be taking (not taking the time to find where to recycle my diet coke can, throwing out a plastic bag with peanut butter on the inside instead of reusing it, etc).

It seems to be a constant challenge, reconciling my actual life with my idealistic life -- and the frustration that comes with it also seems to be never ending.

But.

I do feel hopeful, even with all the waste that does exist in our heavily industrialized (and not) world -- I sincerely believe we have the resources (brain powered and not) to kick our seemingly wasteful nature, but we do have to change our lifestyles, as uncomfortable as that can be. Not to sound too preachy. (Jesus loves you!)



(thought you may enjoy a bit of NZ humor/propoganda)

An Ode to Wilson Panther

Oh lovely cat! You've been a presence and pressure in my life for almost 3 years now; so grateful to have you am I. Your sleek black coat and piercing green eyes are a thing of beauty, similar to the majestic and constant views of NZ (ok maybe not quite as great, even so). Your playful nature comes across even when you were an experiment kitty, with scars, no spleen and an odd number of nipples. Your fascination and aborrance of water never ceases to be hypocritcal (and frustrating); your ability to make toys out of trash makes you a good kommie kitty.

I've been missing my cat. Check him out on youtube thanks to my lovely and wonderful brother (thanks t-funk!): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHyigblOaBY

On the Road Again

Franz Josef Glacier - watch out it's moving fast!



Doing my part to clear the path for Dear Old Dad


A kiwi! (no zoom was used on this photo)

Arrived at Franz Josef Glacier today - the more commercial of the two glacial towns - this one has two whole streets! We've been driving (mostly Dad, not at all surprisingly) around the South Island. We left Picton yesterday and arrived in Westport after about 5.5 hrs of quite interesting driving -- narrow, wind-y roads, gorgeous views (which some **Dad** may not have thought worth the drive), and multiple one lane bridges; one of which was carved right out of the side of a mountain.

After arriving in Westport and settling into our hostel (the TripInn -- and discovering that the door wouldn't close with the current bed alignment, which caused us both to laugh. Luckily manly man dad was able to move the bed so we could get the door to close) we went out for a jaunt around town. Dad was hoping to find a new book to read. Alas, all the stores were closed (close at noon on Saturdays). Thankfully, the bars were open (quite open indeed, a rugby match was on the telly) so we each had a Monteith's ale (monteith's is the local beer around here - i like to think of it as the yuengling of NZ).

The next morning (today) we filled up on petrol and went South to Punakaiki (giggle giggle, I'm so mature) - on the way we saw a sign warning us of penguins for the next 10 kms... yes this is not the states.

just before we reached our destination, there was a lookout, so we stopped, and encountered our first of local fauna for the day. Kiwis! (the birds, not the people) were hanging out and poking around by the carpark - they are ridiculously tame. One came within 3 feet of me. After a few photos, onward we went.

In Punakaiki, we saw the pancake rocks and a bit of the blowholes - both natural phenomenoms - the pancake rocks were formed over years and years (millions that is) of pressure and look like giant stacks of pancakes, and the blowholes are what happens when the tide comes in through them (and blows up through the rocks, not at all suprisingly). After that we went for a short hike through the rainforest than to the Tasman sea to take more photos. It's getting to the point where I don't even know what to think of regarding the scenery -- everything is so beautiful and new, it's hard to know what to photograph, what will be deemed impressive once back in the states. I'm erring on the side of everything will be impressive, so taking lots of photos. (Including the wild -- maybe not though-- goats we saw hanging out, eating, butting heads.)

Onwards we went, down the west coast, where Dad asked for the radio to be turned on (there's a first time for everything) - while I was searching for a station, he commented that he had never been to a place where he couldnt get a station. well he has now! After another penguin crossing sign, an ice cream and one quick glimpse of a glacier, we arrived in Franz Josef.