QT with the TKDs

Baker Beach, a short walk from my current residence. Christine and I walked the dogs here my second day back (the first day was way too jet-lagged to do anything as responsible as taking photos).

In San Francisco, staying with the lovely and hospitable Janet, Tom and Christine. With Christine just back from South Africa we've skewed the Dorman cousin average to being back in the states, as opposed to abroad -- a slight disappointment. We've also spent serious time being jet-lagged -- Thursday was the day to end all days, the longest day ever, the day I time-traveled (read, up for 32 hours straight; left Korea at 10AM and arrived in San Fran at 9AM. Insert twilight zone theme here.)

I'm having another zen of travel moments here -- it seems the perfect fit -- recovering from the jet lag with extended family (ie no motherly nagging... sorry mom). Time here entails a lot of reminicising of stories from 20-40 years ago -- hearing about my parents before they became my parents, having a different perspective of stories I had heard forever ago (kinda like a new feminist awakening, except dorman-centered), talking about future plans (or the lack thereof -- don't ask me yet. I'm still traveling, damnit!). Basically, feeling safe and warm and comfortable in a home. Yay.

The End

of foreign travels, that is.

After 3 stops (a respectable number, at least in Korea) I am completely bonded to the Benny K. Nothing will take noraebang from each other.

But. I am to return to the US of A tomorrow, and an air of trepidation hangs over my head. I hope all will work out all right. We will see. O yes, we will see.

A Backpacker's Guide to Hygiene

I have to admit, I've been thinking about this post since traveling with the father figure back in NZ. Now is the time, apparently.

1. Don't immediately (possibly ever) clean stains off of your clothes. They can be considered a souvenir, like the current kimchi stain on my skirt.
2. Have an intricate system of laundry -- the clean (not smelly), the really clean (haven't been worn since it was washed), the kinda dirty (a bit smelly or stained, but perfectly reasonable to wear again before washing), and the super dirty (don't wear again until washed). Only the final category must be kept at a distance to the other categories.
3. It is acceptable to put deodorant on your clothes instead of washing them (except the super dirty, which is probably just underwear anyway).
4. Shower at least twice a week, more if you're feeling saucy.
5. Dental hygiene is important! Brush twice daily and floss daily -- and don't forget your nightgaurd (if you have one. if you don't, be jealous, they are really cool).
6. Deodorant is not a daily necessity.
7. Anything other than soap and shampoo is a luxury item. This includes (but is not limited to): conditioner, hairbrushes and combs, facewash, razors, lotion, mouthwash, perfume, purell and anything of its like. Just because something is a luxury item does not mean it need not be brought traveling, but if your pack is too heavy, you can only blame yourself.
8. Washing one's hands and face is just as good as taking a shower.

That's all I can think of now, although I'm sure there are many other rules out there. Feel free to add.


Check out my stylin' cat! I miss him.

My Journey out of Seoul

Saturday morning -- I checked out of Kim's Guesthouse and made my way to the subway, a bit unhappily (too much soju the night before). After a 45 minute subway ride I find myself at the express bus terminal stop, with no idea how to get to the actual bus station. 15 seconds after pulling out my guidebook for guidance, an older Korean gentlemen approaches me -- "Where? Where?" he asks -- I tell him Sokcho, and he leads me at a frantic pace up to the terminal ticket
booth. Sweet.

Saturday evening: Arrive in Sokcho, which is along the east coast of Korea and right near Seoraksan National Park. After marveling over the beautiful sunset and settling into my hotel (not hostel -- I'm living large!) room I am taken out to dinner by a younger Korean gentleman. Sweet. Until he tells me I should lose 5 kilos (that crappy man).

Sunday morning: I went to the beach. It wasn't sunny.


Sunday afternoon: I took the bus to the park.

Upon arrival I hoofed it up into the park and went for a hike. There were lots and lots of people. It was the weekend in Korea, so it's to be expected. Luckily they want to show the foreigners a good time, so I got a cup of coffee, a banana, a cup of tea, and a candy bar.


It was steep.


The stream.

Sunday evening: I ate sanchaebibimbap with an Austrain gentleman (my boyfriend, according to the Koreans on the trail -- just because we're the only two white people doesn't mean we're together...).

Monday: I took this trail --

It was not that long of a trail. Even so, there were multiple restaurants along the way. Two women, in an attempt to entice me to stop and eat their potato pancakes, gave me a shot of soju. Needless to say, I just kept on walking.

It was pretty.


Tuesday: I went back to Seoul via bus.

A successful solo venture out of Seoul, even though the weather was less than stellar.

Insomnia Strikes

Sitting in my jammies and mouthgaurd, close to wide awake. One of the European guys staying in my hostel room is snoring like it's his job and I can't get to sleep... At least I'm not alone -- Tania, one of my hostel friends, flies out early tomorrow morning and is staying up all night. We're watching Korean music videos. Yes!

I've been reading Naomi Wolfe's The Beauty Myth and it's depressing. It was written almost twenty years ago and a lot of the problems still exist, or are worse. Why do we wear make-up - what are we hiding? What are we afraid of? Why do we starve ourselves? Why do we deny date rape? Why don't we talk about any of this shit? (Other than me, of course.)

Ahh, all the problems. The problems with womanhood (better defined as denying the existence of womanhood) is but one small slice of the pie. I'm quite tempted to go back to NZ and never come back....

But.

I don't think I want to diverge from the path that much. As much as it seems appealing (especially at 3 AM) it isn't my voyage. (Don't worry Mom, I will get on my plane next week. Or maybe I'll just go to Thailand. Only time will tell.)

Holy goodness I need sleep.

Home Sweet Hostel

I've been staying at an absolutely wonderful hostel (or guest house, as it self-identifies) the past week. The owners, Mrs & Mr Kim, live here as well -- there is definitely a family vibe in the air. While it still is a hostel, considering that people cycle in and out each day, there is a core group of us in room 6 (woot room 6!) that have been here awhile (awhile = more than 4 days). Each day we have coffee together, talk about life, korean culture, etc etc. And each night there is someone to talk about your day and whatever exciting things happened throughout its course.

For example -- today it's raining. Not the best weather to explore a city, even so I went out because I didn't want to go stir crazy. The big event of the day was that it took me 4 ATMs to find one that was willing to give me cash. A little disconcerting -- since I wouldn't be able to swing the last week in Korea with 9000 won.

**Ok, I realize this isn't that interesting. My life has become quite simple, in fact, and getting cash out was the primary goal of the day. That and filing my nails. Score! Both goals accomplished.**

The point of my ramblings: someone was here at the hostel (that I have a previous history with) that I was able to tell about the ATM traumarama. Not that it was that much of a traumarama, but like I wrote, my life is pretty simple. (Right now I'm eavesdropping on one roommate explaining to another why girls wear nail polish. It's absolutely riveting.)

I'm in Seoul for two more nights, then off to Sokcho for 3 nights, then back to Seoul for two more nights, then -- get ready -- back to the states. One more week of international travel -- hard to believe.

Bukhansan/I love Korea

I've hit my Korea groove and gotten to a point here where I'm quite comfortable and happy. Things are different different different, but also fun, interesting and thought-provoking.


I just thought this guy was cute. He's guarding one of the palaces I visited.


This is the view from a meditation nook I found yesterday (was that just yesterday? the days have been quite long here). I reached the spot by one subway ride, walking through a construction site (one of the many in Seoul), then finding my way through a temple, and finally hoofing my way up a path (why did I think it was wise to wear flip flops?). I spent a good part of the day sitting up there -- thinking, reading, listening to the birds, looking at the sites, listening to the music of the monks. It's refreshing to be able to find a place of peace in as big and hectic as a city as Seoul.


This is the view from my sunset spot, I guess two nights ago now. I walk down to Han river park, find a nice spot in the grass and settle in (with the 100s, if not 1000s, of other people that have the same idea). Usually I have an interesting interaction with a small child -- one day a 3 or 4 yr old ran in circles around me until her mother picked her up; another day a school boy through his paper airplane right into me. Ah Koreans -- they can't ignore a whitie.


Today was a great day -- the first part of the day was spent hiking in Bukhansan national park, which is just north of Seoul. After getting there (an issue arose with the bus, but we made it) we followed all the other hikers up the track (and there were many many other hikers) we meandered through the woods (not the bush; no longer down unda). The terrain was different than I expected -- quite dry and rocky, but big rocks with trees growing out of them.


Ben and I at the top of the peak. Check out my totally sweet visor!


This is a funny sign. Apparantly we need to be wary of bears falling off of the mountain.

After a good tramp we came back into the city, ate (I had bibimbap, my first since I've gotten here, surprisingly) and went to a chimchilbang. Ah, no trip to Korea isn't complete without the visit to a chimchilbang -- it's the sauna/bath house/place to take a nap. I really enjoyed it -- I don't know if it's that I just like being naked, or sleeping, or bathing, or if I was really just feeling it after the nap, but. The experience existed as it did and it made a good day great.

Cheers.

Channeling Scarlett

Palace visited today by me (and Ben and a bunch of other people we didn't know).

So I'm seeing English letters -- an improvement over Korean (which the keystrokes had just been producing...).

After 5 days in Seoul my senses are beginning to absorb some of their surroundings (and Korean culture). I've got 'thank you' down pat and I'm getting used to people staring at me. Today marked my first solo subway experience, which is a small feat (the signs all have English on them, so a small feat is correct).


Taken on the Freedom Bridge. Make of it what you will.

Today we went to the DMZ, which is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Korea. The idea of the de-militarized zone as a tourist attraction rates in the confused-emotion category with visiting the Anne Frank House and Dachau. What do I make of it? What do I make of the Korean army guy that boarded our tour bus with an AK-47 on his back? There is something about the experience that is sobering and frighteningly realistic simaltaneoulsy, the latter referring to the fact that the threat is still current, the pain still active (especially for the separated families). Maybe that's also because we trekked through one of the tunnels that North Korea built to invade South Korea, if they so desire. What if they desired when I was in it? Luckily (for me, not the Koreans, since I go back to my home country in 2 weeks) they did not.


That's North Korea in the background -- not the type of Communism I'm into. I apologize for the picture quality, but there are restrictions as to where tourists can take photos.

On other fronts, I've been having a good time in Korea -- drinking soju, perfecting my chopstick usage, trying to watch the sunset (damn you smog!), not getting run over by motorbikes. After the DMZ today we went to Kyongbokkung Palace (altho I think that's the old spelling). Quite cool that there's a massive palace, twice as old as anything in the states, hanging out in the middle of a massive city, with mountains behind it (I would have said the mountains are massive, but I can't considering I just came from NZ). I found a bit of peace by the water palace below:

Nothing like some willow trees by the water to make me happy.

I'm off to nap before going out for the evening -- it's nice to feel like a 24 yr old again.

The White Girl Smile

Me in Seoul. (they drive on the right here -- it's just like home!)

Arrived in Seoul yesterday morning after a full days travel (over 20 hours). First impression? Big and hazy. Apparently the pollution here is worse than LA -- it's not the type of thing i can tell from just walking around the city, but you can tell from this picture:



That's one of the views from the top of a hill that we (Ben and I) hiked up today. I like how the mountains have become a part of the city -- there is a Buddhist temple on the hill that we hiked up (the primary reason that hill was chosen), as well as an outdoor fitness center and many other Koreans out doing their exercise -- which is hard to describe, and for fear of offending people, I won't, but I will say it made me smile.

On the way back down the mountain we passed a white girl (not at all a common sight in Seoul); and we flashed smiles at each other -- over which Ben got excited -- apparently the white girl smile is something he's heard about but not witnessed (it's related to the white guy head nod). At this point, coming from New Zealand where everyone smiles/says hello to everyone else, it was only natural to smile at someone crossing my path (altho the Koreans don't seem to smile back....). I have yet to feel negatively alienated because of my skin, but this is only day 2 so there's plenty of time (18 days here) -- not that I hope (or expect, really) to feel alienated, of course.

As with any world travel experience, it's impossible to put into words or photos (or any combination of the two), exactly what it's like to be in another place. Seoul is at once a culture shock and a homecoming for me -- the culture shock part is obvious, since it's Korea (and I'm not Korean, in case anyone forgot); but my friendship with Ben serves as the homecoming. It's so nice to be able to talk to a friend, and a good friend at that. Yesterday we walked along this river (which is man-made, but that's an issue I won't touch on right now):

and I practiced my Korean -- I already recognize a good number of the letters (characters? what are they supposed to be called?) and have started sounding words out -- it takes me some time, but I can do it -- it's nice to be learning something concrete.


This is a street in Sinchon (a neighborhood). I like it here so far. Very different. It's nice to have an example of something being very different and good at the same time.

Wild and Wooly Weather

Have been in Sydney for 3 1/2 days now, and the weather has been crazy. Yesterday saw the strongest winds in four years (106 k/hr) and the rain has been pouring down since Thursday -- so its basically been ideal conditions for exploring a city.

I did have one nice day here, the first one. After meandering around the Botanic Gardens and taking a few too many pictures of the Opera House, I hopped a ferry to Manly, which is on the North Shore (or so I'm lead to believe). Quite nice, if bourgeois, up there. I spent a good amount of time walking along the beach, sitting on the beach, watching the surfers, trying to figure out how I can fit learning to surf in this summer...

Thursday was supposed to be the best of the rest of my days in Sydney, so I took the train out to Katoomba, which boasts the Blue Mountains. Apparently they're named that because of the blue haze they emit from the eucalyptus trees, although I wasn't able to see anything since it was pouring down rain. Still enjoyable, if for nothing other than splashing in puddles and taking a steaming hot shower when I returned to the hostel.

Yesterday was more typical (and still quite wet) of an exploratory day in a new city -- walked straight across the city to the good thrift store neighborhood (located not at all surprisingly next to the university) and shopped till I dropped. Hey, it's easier to buy new pants than wash the ones I have. On my (cold, windy) walk back to the hostel the wind almost made me trip myself -- it was so strong that it pushed my right foot across my left foot and I almost totally bit it. I didn't though -- the last thing I want to do is break my ankle while traveling.

One more day here -- hopefully the weather will let up enough for me to explore a bit more, then it's off to Korea (and the northern hemi - yay!) tomorrow.

Arrival in Sydney

It always pays to have low expectations --

After the flight from hell across the states two months ago my expectations of any flight has gone down quite a bit -- but the ads are right -- we all should fly Emirates. I did yesterday (AKL-SYD) and it was great. Very good food, heaps of movies to choose from, and 3 seats to myself. Lovely.

My expectations for Sydney (and Australia in general) are quite low -- no real reason, probably just from being in NZ for the past 2 months. After getting thru customs (shortest time thru customs ever, I think) and finding the shuttle bus (the guy came up to me; and I was worried about finding it) it was off to the G'Day backpackers with a newfound German friend (who also was on the shuttle bus and is staying in the backpackers -- we're in the same room, actually). The hostel is a good solid hostel - comfy beds (altho it seems that there's a rubber sheet on it -- hello I'm not 3 yrs old), a big garden area, free brekkie and internet.

Today I'm off to get a feel for the city -- only 4 full days here, so I'll need to act fast.

Peace.

Running Numbers

The last post in NZ -- a bit sad, a bit exciting. I thought I'd give the stats of the trip so far, considering that I'm halfway through.

Beds Slept in: 18

Days Travelled: 64

Pages Written (in journal): 118

Phone Calls to the States: 6

Towns Visited: 16

Stamps on Passport: 1

Items Lost: 3 (my black tights, a pair of socks, and my safety pin -- luckily I met some nice British girls in the hostel last night that were able to replace two out of three!)

Photos Taken: 334

People Befriended: at least 12

Bodies of Water Entered: 3

Posts to the Blog (excluding this one): 32

Bus rides: 11

Flights: 3

Hikes: 8

Books Read: 9 (I'm almost finished the Fellowship for the second time through... wonder how many times I'll read LOTR on the trip?)

I hope this was interesting to youse guys (I'm starting to miss Philly) -- it was fun to figure out.

Off to Aussie!

Time in Thames

The universe has been smiling on me -- I came to Thames (in the Coromandel Peninsula) at the exact perfect time (for me). I'm staying in an absolutely wonderful hostel -- the Sunkist backpackers (Dad you would've loved this place, it's super clean). The woman who runs it is a solid motherly figure -- she just walked into the room and said "O Katie, there you are! I was getting worried about you!" -- Must have been because I spent the whole day out and about yesterday. I ended up making friends with some locals and going up into the bush and seeing a Kauri tree.

Kauri trees. (I'll wait for you to google them).

Words would only butcher the experience of being in the presence of a Kauri tree, but I'll try. They're freakin' massive -- it would take at least 10 people to be able to reach all the way around the one I saw yesterday, and that's not the biggest one in NZ. On top of being huge, it puts out this great energy -- like it's surrounded in power, inside and out, and that it just envelopes all that is nearby. The vast (vast) majority of them were logged in the past century or so (before conservatism got cool); and yesterday I learned that most of the buildings in Thames are made from them (Thames is tainted!). Anyways, this tree was stories upon stories high, with a light, speckled trunk. Gum seeps out of the trunk which people used to use for things (I don't know what things, probably gum- related). I spent a fair amount of time laying on the ground and staring up at the branches -- you could totally build a sweet tree house up there, but the spirits living up there probably would not have been pleased at that. It's heart-breaking to think of all that was lost by the felling of these trees -- the power they held, as well as all the things that lived in the forest that depended on them and are no longer (visible and otherwise). I blame men.

I'm off to Auckland in a coupla hours -- only one more night in NZ! How sad. I'm grateful that I spent the end of my times in Thames -- it was as close to perfect a human gets.