New York, New York

Dear Blog,

I'm in New York, staying with the Judster. Life is grand.

Love,
Katie

The Big Hello

The future looms, it's far away.

Or maybe that's just geographical play.

Family visit on a hill,

Here and there a secret spills

Dinner's made and table's laid.

I help, (no yelps) we don't eat kelp.

Fun is had and I'm quite glad,

Colors blend and feelings mend.

(Damn who doesn't look good in tie dye...)

Sunsets watched and vittles shared,


And with this pool was I paired:


A new city once more, a friend in the mix

The original starbucks caffeine fix.


One rental car will take you far
As far out to the sea.
One faux-Colbert, one eighties dance
Laugh laughs for you and me.


Beauty beauty everywhere surrounds my heart
and makes it swell.
And smile.
(if a heart can smile, from time to time -- which mine can, when it wants to shine.)


A bit of glacial runoff, bright blue
My toes cough, boo hoo!


The sun sets.

O sunset.



Yes, I do in fact miss reading Dr Seuss books out loud.

QT with the TKDs

Baker Beach, a short walk from my current residence. Christine and I walked the dogs here my second day back (the first day was way too jet-lagged to do anything as responsible as taking photos).

In San Francisco, staying with the lovely and hospitable Janet, Tom and Christine. With Christine just back from South Africa we've skewed the Dorman cousin average to being back in the states, as opposed to abroad -- a slight disappointment. We've also spent serious time being jet-lagged -- Thursday was the day to end all days, the longest day ever, the day I time-traveled (read, up for 32 hours straight; left Korea at 10AM and arrived in San Fran at 9AM. Insert twilight zone theme here.)

I'm having another zen of travel moments here -- it seems the perfect fit -- recovering from the jet lag with extended family (ie no motherly nagging... sorry mom). Time here entails a lot of reminicising of stories from 20-40 years ago -- hearing about my parents before they became my parents, having a different perspective of stories I had heard forever ago (kinda like a new feminist awakening, except dorman-centered), talking about future plans (or the lack thereof -- don't ask me yet. I'm still traveling, damnit!). Basically, feeling safe and warm and comfortable in a home. Yay.

The End

of foreign travels, that is.

After 3 stops (a respectable number, at least in Korea) I am completely bonded to the Benny K. Nothing will take noraebang from each other.

But. I am to return to the US of A tomorrow, and an air of trepidation hangs over my head. I hope all will work out all right. We will see. O yes, we will see.

A Backpacker's Guide to Hygiene

I have to admit, I've been thinking about this post since traveling with the father figure back in NZ. Now is the time, apparently.

1. Don't immediately (possibly ever) clean stains off of your clothes. They can be considered a souvenir, like the current kimchi stain on my skirt.
2. Have an intricate system of laundry -- the clean (not smelly), the really clean (haven't been worn since it was washed), the kinda dirty (a bit smelly or stained, but perfectly reasonable to wear again before washing), and the super dirty (don't wear again until washed). Only the final category must be kept at a distance to the other categories.
3. It is acceptable to put deodorant on your clothes instead of washing them (except the super dirty, which is probably just underwear anyway).
4. Shower at least twice a week, more if you're feeling saucy.
5. Dental hygiene is important! Brush twice daily and floss daily -- and don't forget your nightgaurd (if you have one. if you don't, be jealous, they are really cool).
6. Deodorant is not a daily necessity.
7. Anything other than soap and shampoo is a luxury item. This includes (but is not limited to): conditioner, hairbrushes and combs, facewash, razors, lotion, mouthwash, perfume, purell and anything of its like. Just because something is a luxury item does not mean it need not be brought traveling, but if your pack is too heavy, you can only blame yourself.
8. Washing one's hands and face is just as good as taking a shower.

That's all I can think of now, although I'm sure there are many other rules out there. Feel free to add.


Check out my stylin' cat! I miss him.

My Journey out of Seoul

Saturday morning -- I checked out of Kim's Guesthouse and made my way to the subway, a bit unhappily (too much soju the night before). After a 45 minute subway ride I find myself at the express bus terminal stop, with no idea how to get to the actual bus station. 15 seconds after pulling out my guidebook for guidance, an older Korean gentlemen approaches me -- "Where? Where?" he asks -- I tell him Sokcho, and he leads me at a frantic pace up to the terminal ticket
booth. Sweet.

Saturday evening: Arrive in Sokcho, which is along the east coast of Korea and right near Seoraksan National Park. After marveling over the beautiful sunset and settling into my hotel (not hostel -- I'm living large!) room I am taken out to dinner by a younger Korean gentleman. Sweet. Until he tells me I should lose 5 kilos (that crappy man).

Sunday morning: I went to the beach. It wasn't sunny.


Sunday afternoon: I took the bus to the park.

Upon arrival I hoofed it up into the park and went for a hike. There were lots and lots of people. It was the weekend in Korea, so it's to be expected. Luckily they want to show the foreigners a good time, so I got a cup of coffee, a banana, a cup of tea, and a candy bar.


It was steep.


The stream.

Sunday evening: I ate sanchaebibimbap with an Austrain gentleman (my boyfriend, according to the Koreans on the trail -- just because we're the only two white people doesn't mean we're together...).

Monday: I took this trail --

It was not that long of a trail. Even so, there were multiple restaurants along the way. Two women, in an attempt to entice me to stop and eat their potato pancakes, gave me a shot of soju. Needless to say, I just kept on walking.

It was pretty.


Tuesday: I went back to Seoul via bus.

A successful solo venture out of Seoul, even though the weather was less than stellar.

Insomnia Strikes

Sitting in my jammies and mouthgaurd, close to wide awake. One of the European guys staying in my hostel room is snoring like it's his job and I can't get to sleep... At least I'm not alone -- Tania, one of my hostel friends, flies out early tomorrow morning and is staying up all night. We're watching Korean music videos. Yes!

I've been reading Naomi Wolfe's The Beauty Myth and it's depressing. It was written almost twenty years ago and a lot of the problems still exist, or are worse. Why do we wear make-up - what are we hiding? What are we afraid of? Why do we starve ourselves? Why do we deny date rape? Why don't we talk about any of this shit? (Other than me, of course.)

Ahh, all the problems. The problems with womanhood (better defined as denying the existence of womanhood) is but one small slice of the pie. I'm quite tempted to go back to NZ and never come back....

But.

I don't think I want to diverge from the path that much. As much as it seems appealing (especially at 3 AM) it isn't my voyage. (Don't worry Mom, I will get on my plane next week. Or maybe I'll just go to Thailand. Only time will tell.)

Holy goodness I need sleep.

Home Sweet Hostel

I've been staying at an absolutely wonderful hostel (or guest house, as it self-identifies) the past week. The owners, Mrs & Mr Kim, live here as well -- there is definitely a family vibe in the air. While it still is a hostel, considering that people cycle in and out each day, there is a core group of us in room 6 (woot room 6!) that have been here awhile (awhile = more than 4 days). Each day we have coffee together, talk about life, korean culture, etc etc. And each night there is someone to talk about your day and whatever exciting things happened throughout its course.

For example -- today it's raining. Not the best weather to explore a city, even so I went out because I didn't want to go stir crazy. The big event of the day was that it took me 4 ATMs to find one that was willing to give me cash. A little disconcerting -- since I wouldn't be able to swing the last week in Korea with 9000 won.

**Ok, I realize this isn't that interesting. My life has become quite simple, in fact, and getting cash out was the primary goal of the day. That and filing my nails. Score! Both goals accomplished.**

The point of my ramblings: someone was here at the hostel (that I have a previous history with) that I was able to tell about the ATM traumarama. Not that it was that much of a traumarama, but like I wrote, my life is pretty simple. (Right now I'm eavesdropping on one roommate explaining to another why girls wear nail polish. It's absolutely riveting.)

I'm in Seoul for two more nights, then off to Sokcho for 3 nights, then back to Seoul for two more nights, then -- get ready -- back to the states. One more week of international travel -- hard to believe.

Bukhansan/I love Korea

I've hit my Korea groove and gotten to a point here where I'm quite comfortable and happy. Things are different different different, but also fun, interesting and thought-provoking.


I just thought this guy was cute. He's guarding one of the palaces I visited.


This is the view from a meditation nook I found yesterday (was that just yesterday? the days have been quite long here). I reached the spot by one subway ride, walking through a construction site (one of the many in Seoul), then finding my way through a temple, and finally hoofing my way up a path (why did I think it was wise to wear flip flops?). I spent a good part of the day sitting up there -- thinking, reading, listening to the birds, looking at the sites, listening to the music of the monks. It's refreshing to be able to find a place of peace in as big and hectic as a city as Seoul.


This is the view from my sunset spot, I guess two nights ago now. I walk down to Han river park, find a nice spot in the grass and settle in (with the 100s, if not 1000s, of other people that have the same idea). Usually I have an interesting interaction with a small child -- one day a 3 or 4 yr old ran in circles around me until her mother picked her up; another day a school boy through his paper airplane right into me. Ah Koreans -- they can't ignore a whitie.


Today was a great day -- the first part of the day was spent hiking in Bukhansan national park, which is just north of Seoul. After getting there (an issue arose with the bus, but we made it) we followed all the other hikers up the track (and there were many many other hikers) we meandered through the woods (not the bush; no longer down unda). The terrain was different than I expected -- quite dry and rocky, but big rocks with trees growing out of them.


Ben and I at the top of the peak. Check out my totally sweet visor!


This is a funny sign. Apparantly we need to be wary of bears falling off of the mountain.

After a good tramp we came back into the city, ate (I had bibimbap, my first since I've gotten here, surprisingly) and went to a chimchilbang. Ah, no trip to Korea isn't complete without the visit to a chimchilbang -- it's the sauna/bath house/place to take a nap. I really enjoyed it -- I don't know if it's that I just like being naked, or sleeping, or bathing, or if I was really just feeling it after the nap, but. The experience existed as it did and it made a good day great.

Cheers.

Channeling Scarlett

Palace visited today by me (and Ben and a bunch of other people we didn't know).

So I'm seeing English letters -- an improvement over Korean (which the keystrokes had just been producing...).

After 5 days in Seoul my senses are beginning to absorb some of their surroundings (and Korean culture). I've got 'thank you' down pat and I'm getting used to people staring at me. Today marked my first solo subway experience, which is a small feat (the signs all have English on them, so a small feat is correct).


Taken on the Freedom Bridge. Make of it what you will.

Today we went to the DMZ, which is one of the biggest tourist attractions in Korea. The idea of the de-militarized zone as a tourist attraction rates in the confused-emotion category with visiting the Anne Frank House and Dachau. What do I make of it? What do I make of the Korean army guy that boarded our tour bus with an AK-47 on his back? There is something about the experience that is sobering and frighteningly realistic simaltaneoulsy, the latter referring to the fact that the threat is still current, the pain still active (especially for the separated families). Maybe that's also because we trekked through one of the tunnels that North Korea built to invade South Korea, if they so desire. What if they desired when I was in it? Luckily (for me, not the Koreans, since I go back to my home country in 2 weeks) they did not.


That's North Korea in the background -- not the type of Communism I'm into. I apologize for the picture quality, but there are restrictions as to where tourists can take photos.

On other fronts, I've been having a good time in Korea -- drinking soju, perfecting my chopstick usage, trying to watch the sunset (damn you smog!), not getting run over by motorbikes. After the DMZ today we went to Kyongbokkung Palace (altho I think that's the old spelling). Quite cool that there's a massive palace, twice as old as anything in the states, hanging out in the middle of a massive city, with mountains behind it (I would have said the mountains are massive, but I can't considering I just came from NZ). I found a bit of peace by the water palace below:

Nothing like some willow trees by the water to make me happy.

I'm off to nap before going out for the evening -- it's nice to feel like a 24 yr old again.

The White Girl Smile

Me in Seoul. (they drive on the right here -- it's just like home!)

Arrived in Seoul yesterday morning after a full days travel (over 20 hours). First impression? Big and hazy. Apparently the pollution here is worse than LA -- it's not the type of thing i can tell from just walking around the city, but you can tell from this picture:



That's one of the views from the top of a hill that we (Ben and I) hiked up today. I like how the mountains have become a part of the city -- there is a Buddhist temple on the hill that we hiked up (the primary reason that hill was chosen), as well as an outdoor fitness center and many other Koreans out doing their exercise -- which is hard to describe, and for fear of offending people, I won't, but I will say it made me smile.

On the way back down the mountain we passed a white girl (not at all a common sight in Seoul); and we flashed smiles at each other -- over which Ben got excited -- apparently the white girl smile is something he's heard about but not witnessed (it's related to the white guy head nod). At this point, coming from New Zealand where everyone smiles/says hello to everyone else, it was only natural to smile at someone crossing my path (altho the Koreans don't seem to smile back....). I have yet to feel negatively alienated because of my skin, but this is only day 2 so there's plenty of time (18 days here) -- not that I hope (or expect, really) to feel alienated, of course.

As with any world travel experience, it's impossible to put into words or photos (or any combination of the two), exactly what it's like to be in another place. Seoul is at once a culture shock and a homecoming for me -- the culture shock part is obvious, since it's Korea (and I'm not Korean, in case anyone forgot); but my friendship with Ben serves as the homecoming. It's so nice to be able to talk to a friend, and a good friend at that. Yesterday we walked along this river (which is man-made, but that's an issue I won't touch on right now):

and I practiced my Korean -- I already recognize a good number of the letters (characters? what are they supposed to be called?) and have started sounding words out -- it takes me some time, but I can do it -- it's nice to be learning something concrete.


This is a street in Sinchon (a neighborhood). I like it here so far. Very different. It's nice to have an example of something being very different and good at the same time.

Wild and Wooly Weather

Have been in Sydney for 3 1/2 days now, and the weather has been crazy. Yesterday saw the strongest winds in four years (106 k/hr) and the rain has been pouring down since Thursday -- so its basically been ideal conditions for exploring a city.

I did have one nice day here, the first one. After meandering around the Botanic Gardens and taking a few too many pictures of the Opera House, I hopped a ferry to Manly, which is on the North Shore (or so I'm lead to believe). Quite nice, if bourgeois, up there. I spent a good amount of time walking along the beach, sitting on the beach, watching the surfers, trying to figure out how I can fit learning to surf in this summer...

Thursday was supposed to be the best of the rest of my days in Sydney, so I took the train out to Katoomba, which boasts the Blue Mountains. Apparently they're named that because of the blue haze they emit from the eucalyptus trees, although I wasn't able to see anything since it was pouring down rain. Still enjoyable, if for nothing other than splashing in puddles and taking a steaming hot shower when I returned to the hostel.

Yesterday was more typical (and still quite wet) of an exploratory day in a new city -- walked straight across the city to the good thrift store neighborhood (located not at all surprisingly next to the university) and shopped till I dropped. Hey, it's easier to buy new pants than wash the ones I have. On my (cold, windy) walk back to the hostel the wind almost made me trip myself -- it was so strong that it pushed my right foot across my left foot and I almost totally bit it. I didn't though -- the last thing I want to do is break my ankle while traveling.

One more day here -- hopefully the weather will let up enough for me to explore a bit more, then it's off to Korea (and the northern hemi - yay!) tomorrow.

Arrival in Sydney

It always pays to have low expectations --

After the flight from hell across the states two months ago my expectations of any flight has gone down quite a bit -- but the ads are right -- we all should fly Emirates. I did yesterday (AKL-SYD) and it was great. Very good food, heaps of movies to choose from, and 3 seats to myself. Lovely.

My expectations for Sydney (and Australia in general) are quite low -- no real reason, probably just from being in NZ for the past 2 months. After getting thru customs (shortest time thru customs ever, I think) and finding the shuttle bus (the guy came up to me; and I was worried about finding it) it was off to the G'Day backpackers with a newfound German friend (who also was on the shuttle bus and is staying in the backpackers -- we're in the same room, actually). The hostel is a good solid hostel - comfy beds (altho it seems that there's a rubber sheet on it -- hello I'm not 3 yrs old), a big garden area, free brekkie and internet.

Today I'm off to get a feel for the city -- only 4 full days here, so I'll need to act fast.

Peace.

Running Numbers

The last post in NZ -- a bit sad, a bit exciting. I thought I'd give the stats of the trip so far, considering that I'm halfway through.

Beds Slept in: 18

Days Travelled: 64

Pages Written (in journal): 118

Phone Calls to the States: 6

Towns Visited: 16

Stamps on Passport: 1

Items Lost: 3 (my black tights, a pair of socks, and my safety pin -- luckily I met some nice British girls in the hostel last night that were able to replace two out of three!)

Photos Taken: 334

People Befriended: at least 12

Bodies of Water Entered: 3

Posts to the Blog (excluding this one): 32

Bus rides: 11

Flights: 3

Hikes: 8

Books Read: 9 (I'm almost finished the Fellowship for the second time through... wonder how many times I'll read LOTR on the trip?)

I hope this was interesting to youse guys (I'm starting to miss Philly) -- it was fun to figure out.

Off to Aussie!

Time in Thames

The universe has been smiling on me -- I came to Thames (in the Coromandel Peninsula) at the exact perfect time (for me). I'm staying in an absolutely wonderful hostel -- the Sunkist backpackers (Dad you would've loved this place, it's super clean). The woman who runs it is a solid motherly figure -- she just walked into the room and said "O Katie, there you are! I was getting worried about you!" -- Must have been because I spent the whole day out and about yesterday. I ended up making friends with some locals and going up into the bush and seeing a Kauri tree.

Kauri trees. (I'll wait for you to google them).

Words would only butcher the experience of being in the presence of a Kauri tree, but I'll try. They're freakin' massive -- it would take at least 10 people to be able to reach all the way around the one I saw yesterday, and that's not the biggest one in NZ. On top of being huge, it puts out this great energy -- like it's surrounded in power, inside and out, and that it just envelopes all that is nearby. The vast (vast) majority of them were logged in the past century or so (before conservatism got cool); and yesterday I learned that most of the buildings in Thames are made from them (Thames is tainted!). Anyways, this tree was stories upon stories high, with a light, speckled trunk. Gum seeps out of the trunk which people used to use for things (I don't know what things, probably gum- related). I spent a fair amount of time laying on the ground and staring up at the branches -- you could totally build a sweet tree house up there, but the spirits living up there probably would not have been pleased at that. It's heart-breaking to think of all that was lost by the felling of these trees -- the power they held, as well as all the things that lived in the forest that depended on them and are no longer (visible and otherwise). I blame men.

I'm off to Auckland in a coupla hours -- only one more night in NZ! How sad. I'm grateful that I spent the end of my times in Thames -- it was as close to perfect a human gets.

Hitchin' A Ride

As the title leads one to believe (quite obviously) I had my first NZ hitchhiking experience yesterday. It was a travel day (New Plymouth to Thames) and I had two bus rides -- totalling just over 6 hours. Lovely. Anyways, nearing the end of the second bus trip everyone got off the bus, so I thought: 'Hmmm. Maybe this is the last stop.' So I asked the bus driver -- "Is this Thames?" (The last stop and my final destination). "Yes" she says. So I get off, get my pack, and walk into the info center.

After inquiring how to get to my hostel, I learn I got off at the wrong stop. I'm in Parera (or something, I can't quite remember), not Thames. And that was the last bus (well another one comes at the same time as the mine, but I was lead to believe that it had already left). So I'm stuck in Pawera, and what's worse -- I'll have to pay $14 to take the bus 32ks the next day. All because the bus driver doesn't know which stop is which. After 30 seconds of fuming/tearing up, it became apparent to me that this is my opportunity to hitch. So I check the map and head over to the road leading out of Parera and up to Thames. Once there, I throw my thumb out and start walking backwards.

Cars pass. More cars than I wish to be were passing. Cars with attractive people and empty seats pass. Minivans with small children and empty seats pass. Yes! One is pulling over! Oh, no, they just are going to their house. More cars pass. Yes! A car is stopping -- and not just that, a car with a grandmother driving is stopping! There's no way she would beat me and leave me by the side of the road. After recounting my story to her and throwing my pack in the trunk, we're off to Thames.**

Along the way (which took maybe 20 minutes) we chat about traveling -- she just returned from a month in China -- and the burdens of growing old/her ill mother (why she was on the road in the first place -- she was coming up from Palmerston North to check on her). It was quite enjoyable. Anyways, after my mishap with the bus driver set in, she became quite mad -- "We have to file a complaint! If you don't want to, I will." Well ok then. No arguing with an angry grandma. Once in Thames, we're off to the bus depot to file a complaint -- which consisted of telling the people that worked there, and then confronting the bus driver. Apparently she thought I had asked -- is this Parera? (Parera and Thames do not sound alike. Come on.) But she did apologize. And I got a ride to the front door of my hostel (instead of walking the 20 minutes from the bus station). So all's well that ends well.


** The events of this paragraph occurred over the span of 3 minutes.

Photos Photos Everywhere

So here are the photos I promised --


The view from the beginning of my hike up Mt Taranaki. Also the first time I thought of turning around.



The path.


One of the views from the top. That's the pacific in the background. Cool clouds, eh?


my residence for the past 3 weeks.


Ginger the pig.


Vincent the cat -- possibly the best snuggle cat in the world, due to his willingness and fat layers.


My host family and I.


View of Mt Taranaki from the house (in late afternoon).

Farewell to Bushlie's Corner

Tonight marks my last night in Kaimata, with the lovely and wonderful Burwell Heard family. Fate sent me here -- I'm incredibly lucky to have stumbled across such a warm, loving and open family, who allowed me to share my life (troubles and all) with them. I've spent a great three weeks here -- I met my first fairy, scaled my first mountain alone, tasted my first feijoa (how I will miss them!), as well as plenty of other things that I don't want the wide world of the internets to know about. I feel that I developed a good base of knowledge with which to start my first garden -- sustainability here I come!

But time marches on -- I'm headed up to the Coromandel Peninsula for the rest of my time in NZ, so I can say farewell to my fantasyland. Then 5 nights in Sydney, then to Korea to visit Ben -- quite looking forward to seeing someone that I can say "Hey remember when we did this a coupla years ago?...." to.

Hope all is well back in the states. Someone send me an email if Bush gets impeached. Or if a heart attack fells Cheney.

Release the Trees!

That title makes me think of Mr Burns -- 'Release the hounds!', but my experience with releasing trees is quite far from the villainous Monty Burns.

One of my tasks on the farm was to (you guessed it!) release the trees in the wetland. Along one edge of the farm's property runs a very small stream, and they are actively trying to reclaim the wetlands. Reclaim them from the cows, that is. The cows muck up the land all around the stream from walking their heavy bodies on it (called pugging), and basically the stream gets lost in the process. So fences go up around the streams (or where the stream should be, and the lucky streams at that) and native trees are planted within the fence's borders. But, until the trees are a tree-like size, the grass (that is no longer being eaten by the cows) grow up all around the trees, sometimes so much so that the trees aren't visible. Gosh dang, environmentalism is hard work! So a few times a year (while the trees are still wee babes) someone goes down and releases the trees from the grasses. (A simple task made more challenging by their number --800!) As intuitive as the job sounds, I couldn't remember what my host called it, so until the name stuck in my head I called it freeing the trees. Which made (and makes) me giggle.

Life on Bushlie's Corner is treating me well. (other than the splinters, of which I've had 4 that required needle attention, and a handful of smaller ones) Today I saw two of the ducks wagging their tails -- ha -- ducks wag their tails. I have just under a week left here before a night in New Plymouth, then up to Thames for some relaxation (hmmm.... I wonder who colonized NZ? It's a shame the names of the towns are so unfamiliar....) before heading back to Auckland for my flight to Sydney. So I have just under 2 weeks left here -- hard for me to believe that I'm so far into the trip already. Time marches on (especially when one's traveling).

I promise to upload heaps of photos once I get to a place that recognizes my camera (some of the computers here have been quite mean -- ostracizing it, not letting it play any reindeer games and such).

Cheers!

Mmm, Mmm Good

Last night I finally (finally) made something worthwhile enough to write the recipe down. It is as follows:

Kaimata Beans:

Put 1 1/2 cup dry black beans in boiling water until there is about 3" of water above the beans in a pot and cook them until soft (but not mushy). This will take awhile (like at least an hour, but probably more).

While beans are cooking grate 4 large carrots (more can be used if desired) and chop 2 welsh onions (can sub in 4 spring onions, 2 leeks, or 1 large onion -- but not all of those). And read a book, play your guitar or write in your journal, since grating carrots and chopping onions doesnt take that long.

Heat equal parts oil and tamari in a large frying pan. Once beans are soft, add them to the pan. There should be just enough liquid left in the beans to reach the top of the beans in the pan. Add 1 dried bay leaf, salt, pinch of black pepper, 2 heaping tsps sugar, and chili powder (to taste, but do put some in even if you're serving to kids. I added a pinch and the two yr old guzzled the beans down). Bring bean mix to a rapid boil. Add carrots and onions. Add 2-3 springs each of thyme and marjoram (don't forget to strip those leaves of the stem!). Simmer rapidly until most of the liquid is gone (stir as you see fit throughout).

Prior to serving, remove bay leaf and add a generous handful of chopped flatleaf parsley. Also, taste before serving and add salt if necessary. Serve with rice.

I imagine this recipe to be one of those that you can amend as you see fit. BBQ sauce would be nice, or ginger... lots of stuff. Just make sure that if you're adding something like BBQ sauce, which has salt, to add less salt. Or none. Just taste it and make sure it tastes good.

I love cooking. And food.

The Time is Now

Looking out from my current spot I see a gorgeous, almost finished sunset. Life is quite peaceful here.

There has been lots of introspection (I think that's the right word) lately -- that and dirty hands. No matter what I seem to do, I can see dirt somewhere on my hands. Anyways, back to my topic sentence...

Since I'm a worrier (thanks so much parents, I enjoy that trait you've passed on even more than my height) and a thinker, my mind rarely rests. And mindless garden tasks (as much as I've been enjoying them, P & K --) aren't good to keep the mind active. I find myself thinking about the past and the future, as opposed to the present. The current. My lovely eventful never to be had again time in New Zealand. So recently I've been making a conscious effort to stay in the present -- hell I'm in charge of my mind, not the other way around.

I've done a coupla things in the past coupla days to keep myself present-ified:

- yoga while facing the mountain. definitely better than yoga in a warm sweaty classroom.
- looking at the mountain (in general) - usually the clouds are doing something cool around it (if they're not obstructing it's view)
- swimming in a local river. Keep in mind its almost winter here, and it's not like NZ is Thailand or anything. that water was so cold that my breath caught in my throat for the first minute or two, but then it became crisply refreshing (quite crisp, in fact). but swimming in a river, turning over to skull on my back and seeing the late afternoon filter through the canopy of the trees along the riverbank --- that's what this trip is about. having those experiences.

Darn that Pig

An interesting encounter with Ginger the Pig this morning:

I was in the lower vegetable garden, weeding the corn beds (so we can sow broad beans, aka fava beans). I'm listening to Cher (don't mock me, it's really good music to weed to) and minding my own business. Ginger was out of his pen (I think the thing has been shorting out) minding his own business on the other side of the fence (the veggie garden is fenced in so the chooks and ducks don't get in there and eat everything), eating, and generally just hanging out (as much as a pig can hang out). I got the feeling that he liked being near me.

Next thing I know, the darn pig is in the garden with me! He has learned how to finagle himself around the chicken wire door of the garden. And of course he doesn't understand to not walk on the beds, so he's traipsing across all the veggies and I'm chasing around after him trying to get him out of the garden. Finally I succeeded (but not after he ate a green tomato and stuck his little hooves in too many of the beds) and he was back outside, chilling with the ducks and chooks.

Silly pig.

A Tuesday in Taranaki

Life at Bushlie's Corner (the name of the farm) so far has left me quite content. Sunday was an absolutely magnificent day -- Farmer's market in the morning, the afternoon spent on a scenic bush reserve, dinner cooked outside over an open fire, and finishing out the day with a thought-provoking discussion on everything from politics to womanhood to permaculture. (Well maybe those three are more related than I initially thought). I have just 3 weeks left in NZ -- it's a bit hard to believe that I'm this far in the trip already. (although it is nice to think about all the fun things left ahead of me).

I feel like I'm getting quite used to life on the farm -- feeding the pigs in the morning (usually Ginger is loose -- silly pig, escaping his electric fence), then to watever task I have for the day. Today I mulched the feijoa trees in the orchard. At one point when clipping branches I tucked close to the fence to get better access, but quickly moved back to where I had been after being stared down by the bull next door.

I made dinner tonight for the family -- while making the two dinners I've made so far I've been hyper conscious of the spices I put in (considering I have a tendency to heavily over spice) since I'm cooking for little kids. Oh and I have an infected splinter on my right pointer (for which I was given a natural remedy that's worked quite well at bringing the bugger up to the surface). And I've pretty much finished the LOTR trilogy (about 3 weeks, not bad, especially since I've been trying to go slowly).

Hope all is well back in the states -- and to all the mothers -- Happy (belated) Mother's Day!


***had a bit of trouble figuring out a clever title for the post, i apologize***

I'm a Little Tramper

So I've been in Taranaki (a region, not a town -- just in case anyone's interested) for just shy of a week now, and I'm thoroughly enjoying my farmstay. Definitely the most physical labor I've done in awhile (ok lets be honest -- possibly ever) -- today included moving 2x4s, cleaning out the pig shed and pulling out corn stalks (harder than it sounds... Mom, you know what I'm talking about). I'll put up photos when I figure out how to view my photos on my host family's computer... so far no luck.

Anyways, on Wednesday the weather was gorgeous so I went for a hike up Mt Taranaki. It was the first time I ever went for a real hike by myself, and it certainly was a challenge. Although it wouldn't have been any easier with anyone else, but even so -- took me just over 8 hours, but 45 minutes were break time (ok maybe a little more). The scenery was beautiful to interesting -- native bush at the beginning, then alpine zone, then rocks rocks and more rocks. Quite difficult to manage going up but quite fun to come down. The first bit of rock was very slippery and hard to find footing in (which made for rock-sledding on the way back) then the oh so lovely volcanic rock I became familiar with during the Tongariro Crossing. I almost lost faith (since the Kiwis kept passing me by), but I persevered. The top of the mountain (oh I failed to mention this is actually a volcano -- so the top had a wee crater, filled with ice, snow, and no discernible path) was the most challenging, considering the slippery-ness and lack of path, oh and having to climb, not hike, but it was certainly worth it. At the top of the mountain the views were spectacular -- the Tasman Sea on three sides and Mt Tongariro to the east. And I lucked out with the views (so said the Kiwi -- in shorts, mind you -- that I spoke with at the top) -- rarely is the weather so clear.

So, I discovered to keep myself going in the hard times (but not so difficult all I could think about was my foot and hand placement) it works to make up a song. The lyrics to my lovely song are as follows (tune to 'I'm a Little Teapot'):

I'm a little tramper, short and lean,
Always carry water in my canteen.
Up the mountains I go, slow not fast.
Other trampers hurry past.

As the going got easier on the way down I made up two other verses, but I will hold them dear in my heart for awhile longer before sharing them. Don't worry, I already copywrited that first verse.

Where I've Wanted To Be

That's where I am now -- where I've wanted to be. I'm on a farm (small one, but definitely a farm). There are pigs and chickens (called chooks here), a bunny-eating cat, fruit and fejoia trees (aka one of the tastiest fruits ever -- looks kinda like a small green avocado and tastes like a citrusy kiwi), lots of greens, multiples types of beets, a tree made windblock, gray-water system... sigh.

I'm staying with a young family who's doing their best to live the sustainable lifestyle (which is near impossible in any western country, but its heartening to see some try valiantly). There are two young kids (2 & 4) so I've been putting my nannying skills to use -- although they're both boys, which I'm less familiar with -- something tells me they won't be into dance parties as much as my former small child companion.

Diversions diversions. I arrived here (Taranaki) just yesterday and spent the afternoon at the Environment Centre -- where both parents work (part time - yes!) as coordinators/educators of sustainability in the local schools. Needless to say, I'm happy. And content. I worked outside today and have dirt under my fingernails. I'm definitely here for the next two weeks (4 weeks left in the land of the Kiwis) and I may stay on the rest of my time, depending on how things go. There's a bike here I can use -- and a massive mountain just south of the house (that I'm itching to hike -- havent really hiked since dad left). Oh and Sundays are spent at the local farmers market, that was recently initiated by my female host.

Hope all is well back in the states -- send me emails! I know everyone has their important and busy lives, but I'd always appreciate a note from my loved ones back stateside.

Cheers!

Wellington.

Looking down into the center of Wellington from the street on which my hostel sits.

So it's been an interesting day -- as I was walking down the promenade some teenage hooligan boys called out "hey, four eyes!" real mature. and creative.

But back to the nitty gritty. I set my mental alarm clock this morning for 7:30 and it actually worked. I was a bit surprised, but I guess I shouldn't be... considering that I'm psychic and all. I wouldn't normally wake up that early on a Saturday, but there's free breakfast in the hostel and I wanted to make sure I a) got some; and b) got the best of it (why was I concerned for this? Because of just missing nutella time and time again in Europe two summers ago). Anyway the breakfast wasnt that great (rice crispies and toast) but I discovered I could make a mocha, which brightened up my day (in more ways then one).


Mushrooms in the Botanic Gardens

Then it was off to the Botanic Gardens for a stroll and some photos, then down to the Te Papa Museum for some New Zealand culture. Much of the museum was typical history/culture stuff, although there was a re-creation of the native bush for one of the exhibits. And they seem to have a lot of interactive exhibits -- a lot more Please Touch than it seems there is in the states. Actually it was quite different than any museum Ive been to in the states now that I think about it... it was everything under one roof -- whale skeletons, history, old and modern art, an espresso bar and big comfy chairs, seasonally rotating exhibitions. No omni theater though.

OK (my thoughts are winding around quite a bit tonight -- I can't get this USB drive to acknowledge my photos, the bitch -- so sorry if no photos, if there are photos, then I'm a technological goddess). What I want to write about is an exhibit called Blood Earth Fire (which I first thought was Earth Wind Fire... haha and it made me think of Kashaka). The exhibit was all about the transformation of NZ's land since human arrival (about 800 yrs ago). Quite thought provoking indeed.... something like 25% of the native bush remains. 50% of NZ land is grassland (damn the sheep!) and all the moas are extinct.... (stupid birds that didn't have any predators except each other -- cannibals!).

There seems to be so much cultural awareness on the effect humans have on the land -- which seems to be so different than anywhere else I know of. Obviously we can realize (and sometimes acknowledge) that we cut down trees, or build roads, or hey there's trash in the river and it's brown, it wasn't always like that -- but it doesn't seem we (Americans) go much farther than that.

I'm sure there's no reason to, of course. These Kiwis are crazy!

But.

Awareness is only one step. and a beginning step. and a small step. It seems we need a change of consciousness. The woman I stayed with last week has only one hygiene related paper product in her house -- toilet paper (no napkins, no paper towels, no q-tips. ok she had pads and tampons, but the tampons were o.b. -- and the person that asks us ladies to live without pads and tampons.... is a person who hopes to never meet me and endure the wrath of katie). only toilet paper! lots and lots of dish towels, for all napkin and paper towel needs. It made me think though -- more than once my mind thought I needed a napkin. But of course I made do (no throwing myself into the ocean in a hysterical fit over the lack of napkin for me, thank you). Kinda highlights the difference between needs and wants.

The past few paragraphs were for your thinking pleasure (or pain, depending on how much you love your consumption...).

After the museum I wandered around, ate two PB&J sandwiches, went to the i-Site (Kiwi speak for information center), tried on some clothes (I think I'm a size 8 here. Low rise pants are still popular here -- damn them! I hate the low rise!), then hoofed it to the top of Mt Victoria. Quite nice really. (Nope USB port still isn't working... I'll put up photos later. Stupid machines.) It was windy all day today (Wellington's known for that actually) -- at the top of the mountain the clouds were moving like they had to get to the hospital to give birth, but the sun found ways to peak through -- I saw a few instances of sunrays shining down onto the harbor -- quite nice.

View from the top of Mt Victoria

Oh and I read a bunch of the two towers. And ate another PB&J, and had an apple. I'm still hungry... time for a beer! (hopefully the damned rugby match is off the telly, otherwise I'm defintely going to have to pay for my own beer....)

Cheers!